by Dave Llorito

From a distance, mighty waves surge with immense power, building up to their peak before crashing forcefully onto the rugged shoreline along the coast of Burgos town in Siargao Island. The impact propels water sprays to astonishing heights of twenty feet into the air. This natural spectacle unfolds continuously not only in Burgos but also in other towns across Siargao Island, attracting thousands of visitors from around the world.

I recall that in 2013, the first article I read in The New York Times upon landing in Washington D.C. during a work trip was about Siargao. The feature story described it as a “small island with the world’s best surf breaks and a gateway to a beautiful and unspoiled region of islands and island culture.” This really piqued my interest. It wasn’t until ten years later that I had the chance to visit the island, following a long work break, with my bicycle in tow. I stayed for more than a week. My overall impression? It’s these magical waves that make Siargao particularly special.

Shaped like a teardrop, Siargao is part of the province of Surigao del Norte, located in the northeastern part of the Mindanao mainland. It comprises nine municipalities, including Burgos, Dapa (the port of entry), Del Carmen, General Luna, San Benito, Pilar, San Isidro, Santa Monica, and Socorro, with a combined population of over 136,000 locals (as per 2020 census).

My bike-touring trip around Siargao didn’t go as planned on the first day. After arriving at Siargao Airport, I assembled my bicycle, rode towards General Luna, and took a wrong turn towards Jubang. I remember pushing the bicycle through muddy trails and forested hills for several hours, ending up in Cambas-ac, a small fishing community. People were surprised to see me with my muddy bicycle emerging from the forest, but they guided me to the next boat going to Dapa Port, where I rejoined the highway to General Luna fifteen kilometers away.

People who visit Siargao often gravitate towards the town of General Luna (locals simply say “GL”), where Cloud 9, one of the island’s most renowned surfing spots, is located. I learned from resort operators that its fame began to grow in the 1980s when prominent surfers from abroad arrived in search of the “perfect wave.” Its reputation as a global surfing destination truly skyrocketed in the 1990s when photos showcasing the island’s incredible waves were published in international magazines.

Besides surfing, GL has become the hub for island hopping, inland tours, diving, kayaking, sailing, kite surfing, and game fishing. These activities have transformed the island into a vibrant party town for tourists, attracting investments in hotels, resorts, restaurants, and retail. At night, General Luna’s “tourism road” comes alive with activities like dining, dancing, live bands, and karaoke singing.

After spending two days in General Luna checking out surfing areas, the bars and restaurants, I decided to continue my journey up north, following the Siargao Circumferential Road as it wound its way through the northern end of the island, passing through the towns of Pilar, San Isidro, Burgos, Santa Monica, and San Benito. Along the way, I caught glimpses of laid-back communities nestled among tall coconut stands.

Leaving GL, I pedaled back towards Dapa, then turned right at the junction towards the Coconut Plantation Viewpoint (a popular spot for tourist photos) which featured a long climb followed by a fast-turning descent towards Barangay Maasin. The rest of the bike ride is rolling terrain of varying elevations all the way to Santa Monica, the northernmost point of the island.

If you’re someone who seeks peace and quiet, you’ll love these northern towns. Like GL, these seaside communities boast of big waves, white beaches, and coconut trees. But unlike GL, they attract fewer tourists, which I personally prefer.

I thoroughly enjoyed my stay in Burgos, simply observing those colossal swells. Although I didn’t surf due to lack of knowledge, witnessing the waves and listening to their thunderous roar was absolutely worth every moment of my time.

My visit concluded at the town center of Del Carmen, marking the end of the 136-kilometer ride around the island. According to the bicycle app, Komoot, the ride largely traversed rolling concrete and asphalt roads, the highest being only 60 meters above sea level. Overall, it was a pleasant bike ride, except for a few mishaps like a minor crash, a loosened crank arm, and a malfunctioning rear derailleur.

I couldn’t get enough of Siargao. With a few days left in my vacation, I rented a van to revisit and spent more time in some popular tourist spots, including the shrine marking the arrival area of Florentino Das in Santa Monica and the country’s largest well-maintained contiguous mangrove forest in Del Carmen, which covers over 8,000 hectares.

In 1956, a Pinoy adventurer sailed solo from Hawaii to the Philippines on a wooden boat he built himself, braving severe storms and squalls. He landed on the shores of Santa Monica, Siargao after a year, and months later, eventually reached his hometown in Allen, Samar. A local marker was erected in his honor.

In Del Carmen, local people regaled me with stories about how these mangrove forests help protect their coastline from environmental threats, provide habitats for marine species, serve as a natural buffer against storms, and generate jobs in tourism.

It’s often said that everyone who visits Siargao is likely to return, and some even stay for good. I can understand why. It’s as if, when the Almighty rained natural gifts upon the world, these 437 square kilometers of island got many of them: the waves, long stretches of white sand and clear waters, lagoons, expansive mangroves, and towering coconut groves.

Economics is also at work. The influx of tourists and investments has sparked what appears to be early-stage urbanization in GL. As a result, many young people who have a passion for the beach and nature can find income-earning opportunities in the growing tourism sector, providing them with compelling reasons to stay.

I look forward to visiting the island again in the future. I’m curious to see how the influx of surfers, tourists, tour operators, investors, migrants, influencers, and travel writers will shape and change the island over time. (Dave Llorito/for MindaNews)

Dave Llorito, a Mindanaoan and avid traveler, works in Metro Manila, and spends his vacations hiking mountains and cycling across the Philippines’ islands. The observations expressed in this article are his personal impressions.